Pride of Vietnamese people

According to Nguyen Duc Binh, Chair of the Dinh Lang Viet Club, the five-panel ao dai took shape in the mid-18th century in the Hue court of Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat and is considered the forerunner of the world renowned Vietnamese ao dai. But whereas modern ao dai is comprised of a long tunic split at the side, worn over pants, the five-part one consists of two flaps sewn together in the back, two flaps sewn together in the front, and a “baby flap” hidden underneath the main front flap.

The five-panel ao dai also has five buttons symbolizing the five constant virtues (kindness, decorum, uprightness, wisdom and faithfulness,) or the five moral obligations (king and subject, father and child, husband and wife, brothers and sisters, among friends).

Men’s five-panel ao dai and women’s are similar, but the collar for women is smaller than for men, the sleeves are narrower, and the flaps for men are longer. Both have five buttons along the body on the left down to the waist. Binh said ao dai is not only a national costume but also has rich historical and cultural values. The way it is worn, especially ao dai for men, clearly demonstrates such characteristics as modesty, discreetness and exquisite taste. The exquisiteness is evident in the stitching, which is fine, regular and straight and concealed in some places. The five-panel ao dai’s flaps, collar, sleeves and buttons are carefully calculated to make it both functional and aesthetic.

Reviving the five-panel ao dai

Although the ao dai used to be the traditional costume of Vietnamese men, and historically preceded women’s ao dai, the traditional men’s ao dai is rarely worn these days. Nowadays, the men’s five-panel ao dai and its associated turban can be found only in museums, literature, cinema and painting, Binh said.

Attempting to promote and spread the cultural values of ao dai, the Department of Culture and Sports of Thua Thien Hue Province has since September 2020 encouraged staff members to wear ao dai during the flag-raising ceremony held on the first day of each month, and many employees have complied. Binh said the ao dai culture should be introduced to the younger generation and the costume should be made comfortable and easy for use.

In recent years, the Dinh Lang Viet Club, devoted to preserving the ancient values of communal houses, has organized numerous ao dai promotion activities, including some to increase the use of men’s ao dai in daily life. A center for development of the five-panel ao dai was established in 2017, becoming a meeting place for lovers of traditional costumes. The Hanoi old quarters management unit, in collaboration with Dinh Lang Viet Club, has opened a special space for the five-panel ao dai at the heritage house at 87 Ma May Street, Hang Buom Ward of Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem District.

Thu Trang & Hoang Lan